January 27, 2015

A BOMB BOMBER // #RIGELBOMBERJANUARY

There's been a bit of radio silence over here (and in my sewing room) because this jacket took some serious time and some serious brain power (I pondered the lining insert for longer than necessary) - but I finished my Rigel Bomber just in time for #rigelbomberjanuary!!!

This also has to be my most favorite make to date (and I've worn it three days in a row - including RIGHT NOW)!

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber
Size: Medium
Modifications: Added full lining, rather than facing
Fabric: Viscose poplin from Blackbird Fabrics, Navy cotton/poly ribbing, Rayon bemberg/Ambience lining, Warm and Natural batting, 14" YKK zipper
Worn with: Ginger jeans
I've seen versions of the Rigel Bomber floating around the interwebs ever since the Constellation collection was released - but I never had a ton of motivation to whip one up. Enter Gingermakes (with Mel and Kat) and the #rigelbomberjanuary challenge!
Sonja provided ample inspiration, and my previous thoughts of a floral bomber changed to some sort of quilted bomber ala The New Craft Society. I also channeled heavy inspiration from Bimble and Pimple, and chose this amazing viscose poplin from Blackbird Fabrics.
The fabric was pretty flimsy for a jacket, but so soft and drapey. I quilted the front and back, with 1" squares on the diagonal, using a guide (I'm not even sure if it's supposed to be used that way...). I didn't quilt the sleeves (I do live in Southern California and it's not ever that cold), and they're substantial enough with the lining. I love the structure the quilting gives to the jacket - it makes it much more functional.



I sewed together the shell pretty much according to the directions (welt pockets weren't as hard as I feared!). I highly recommend basting in the ribbing - but next time I would do it after the zipper installation (the directions have you sew in the neck ribbing before the zipper). I ended up having to rip out and readjust the neck ribbing, and it would've been easier to place with the zipper already in.


After seeing the New Craft Society bomber, I figured I would sew in the lining without the facing. But after seeing Sewn By Elizabeth's version, and how she lined it - I began to worry a bit (especially after seeing others' examples with the lining + facing). Unfortunately I didn't cut my fabric very well and didn't have enough to cut the facing anyway - so I went without. Because my lining matches the shell, I love it as is - but if you were using contrasting/clashing lining, the facing might be a good idea.

To make my lining, I just cut the front, back and sleeves from my lining fabric - no changes/size differences. I did use Elizabeth's methods a little bit - in that I sewed the lining to the shell along the bottom first (right sides together), then flipped it up to sew along the bottom edge, up the zipper, around the neckline, and back down again.

I left the both sets of sleeves separate and turned the jacket inside out that way. I also knew that no one would see the inside of the sleeves, so I serged the cuffs onto both the shell and lining as one (so you can see serging inside the cuffs).

I love, love, love this jacket and it really does feel like one of my more accomplished makes - quilting, welt pockets, full lining, and an awesome zipper?! It makes me feel like a sewing superstar! Changes for next time would really only be to lengthen the sleeves 1-2" (why didn't I listen to everyone else?) and to possibly raise the neckline (it's lower than my v-neck T-shirts).

Did you participate in #rigelbomberjanuary? I can't wait to see everyone's!
 
Some bonus pics of Jeremy's succulent garden...



17 comments:

  1. It wouldn't have been my kind of vest, but I love what you did, giving me the idea of doing one myself. Great job !!!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thank you!! This jacket is definitely... loud :D And you should make one! It's so satisfying to wear it when you're done!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Katie you did a fantastic job!! It look fabulous on you - I love your fabric choices too!!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thank you, Heather! I was really surprised/happy/excited when it all came together. I hope you'll post about yours!!

    ReplyDelete
  5. That is definitely the bomb! Love the quilting and your extra efforts really paid off.

    ReplyDelete
  6. It looks great - so impressed by the quilting and the welt pockets! They terrify me.....this shall be the year I conquer them (I said that last year.....).

    ReplyDelete
  7. Thanks, Katie! This took so much longer than things usually take (except jeans) - so I'm glad it came out so well!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Thanks, Sarah! The welts really weren't that hard... just try not to think too much about slicing through the front of your jacket or coat. This jacket pattern has really good instructions for them though, which helped a lot.

    ReplyDelete
  9. I love love love this! It looks so great and your quilting is so perfect! I love how you matched the pattern across the front. Great work! Also, I'm really jealous of your succulents! I made a terrarium a few weeks ago and it's looking ROUGH.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Thank you!!! And thanks for helping to come up with the challenge! :D

    And I should take some more pictures of our succulents - they're literally taking over our balcony. We get barely any direct sun so they're the only things that grow... even when we forget to water them.

    ReplyDelete
  11. What a gorgeous rigel! I'd love to do a quilted version, plus a darker version, plus a higher necked version...hem, clearly not enough time or wardrobe space. I'm glad you found a lining process that worked for you.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Thanks Elizabeth!! I'm sure you can make excuses for more jackets! :D

    ReplyDelete
  13. this whole post is yummy! and quilting w/o the walking foot? dude, your machine is a beast! lol. really, looks be-A-you-ti-ful!

    ReplyDelete
  14. when I saw my inspiration for this jacket, she used a walking foot - which I don't have, so I just proceeded! Not sure what usually happens on other machines, but mine handled it like a champ. The fabric did shift a bit, but luckily I could trim it off...

    ReplyDelete
  15. Love this! Such a good idea to not quilt the sleeves too, my quilted one is absolutely boiling. Great if it's chilly, unwearable if the sun is out one bit. I also lengthened sleeves on my second one and made the neckline higher. I love this original pattern but with a few adjustments it gets even better! :) Hannah

    ReplyDelete
  16. Thanks, Hannah!!! The non quilted sleeves, and the fact that it's rayon maybe helps, make it such a great weight for LA! And I think I will definitely be lengthening the sleeves and raising the neckline a little on a future version (which I want to make in white eyelet!).

    ReplyDelete